35 days on the sea

It has been long time since we were on the middle of ocean now. When we got back to land life I could feel how much I miss to be there. Here comes story from our log on the sea.

We are at the moment staying on a broad reach with gennaker and reefed main somewhere north of Jakarta. About to finish or 30th day at sea with less than 650Nm to our destination which is Johor baharu in Malaysia, that is a city bordering to Singapore. But things didn’t go as planned from the beginning, mostly because we did a very bad job making research about Indonesia. We sat of from New Caledonia with a grumpy weather and this pushing us forward at good speed but with little comfort. That weather lasted nearly 8days and was followed of course by calm, soon we had reached Torres Strait and was fast re energized by flat water a gentle wind and the sight of hilly islands. It’s amazing how fast energy comes back when getting good weather overhead and sight of land.

At that time we already had found out that a cruise permit was needed to be able to stay in Indonesia and that the processing time was about 60days and had to be done before arrival. For us who been spending more than 8 months in the south pacific life rhythm it was not easy to come over that we now had enter the stressful paper world again. And that we were going to pass Lombok where our friend Olle Sandstrom and some other run a surf camp close with community. It would been just perfect to visit in this way. In the morning before sunrise we passed just 4Nm outside their bay. It felt a bit stupid, but we will come back we are sure about that.

We had to re plan our trip a bit and first we thought about landing in East Timor but decided to go on to Singapore to make provisioning and make contact with the home world. Research more about where it will be good to put Miramis on rest while we fly home.

From Torres Strait we got a Tern crashing into our cockpit, a young bird he came to stay with us nearly two weeks! We named him/her Saba. On day times Saba was out flying occasionally but always returned after some hour making another sketchy landing, Just to have another fresh tuna sashimi. I think it was a combination of the sashimi and that it lost its parents that made us get this close relationship. It’s amazing to see how fast a bird grow in just two weeks and to see how much skills Saba gained on landing with crosswind on a moving solar panel! In the end I think Saba could have made it as a fighter pilot on any carriers with ease. We who love birds became very happy to be able to study and come that close to one of those master navigators.

Somewhere between Lombok and Bali Saba decided to leave and it felt a bit sad to realize he was gone… But as we realized it is much easier to go to Indonesia for a bird since no need of all those papers and we agreed on that we would have done the same.

One sad thing we noticed while entering the archipelago of Indonesia is the increasing amount of plastic floating in the water, So far we have caught 3 plastic bags and some other kind of wrapping plastic on our trolling line…

Now when we are in the archipelago. It is never a boring day OR NIGHT. There are hundreds of ships and fishing boats around us all the time and even if it takes more focus, it is fun to have people around. Not to mention how good it feels to have less than 100meter and often less than 60 under the keel. It feels like sailing in a lagoon and tomorrow we hope to stop quickly at a wreck that is supposed to be visual above surface. More things that happened is that Conny turned 32, woke up to a birthday cake and a decorated saloon! What a luxury! Fresh whipped cream and handmade tool bag 🙂

We have tried different methods with drying tuna and seaweed in the sun on deck. We actually found an amazing book about how to be self-sufficient under extended lengths of cruises. “ SAILING FARM” the name sound dull, but the inside is very interesting. It explains much about drying fruits and vegetables, about drying fish and seaweed sun cooking and much more. I regret that we didn’t found this book while in the south pacific where our enormous banana stocks ripe at a speed that was impossible to keep up with on the eating front. We could have had dried banana chips for a year!!! It should be read by everyone that like to try this out, it seems to be very easy and just the seaweed part is amazing with how much proteins minerals and vitamins they consist of lying there all their life in a fluid full of nutrition’s, and it grow everywhere and taste good too!! Why we don’t use it more in the north of Europe/Scandinavia. Maybe more of us need to realize this source of healthy food as a compliment to the not environmental meat protein.

When I was at sea this long, sometimes I felt that it would be better to spend valuable time on land to meet friends, work or study something new instead of read a book, talk, watch movies and water.

What you do on the sea is quite similar every day. But I realized now that every second was so important on this trip. The process. Without this process we never manage to reach Malaysia and also never appreciate so much to be on the land, to be able to walk, run and get fresh fruits. I remember I was so happy to just go up and down long stairs even I got land-sick. But one strange thing is that I was a bit tired to be on the sea then, but now I miss to be there. I think I am in love. There, time disappearing suddenly with beautiful endless line that ocean and sky makes. There, you learn happiness and patience from nature every day. 23days sailing became 35days. It was long time. But there was something I loved and I know that in the future, this memory will tell us more about what we learned.

_1 _MG_7860_MG_7859IMG_20140901_161506 - KopiaIMG_20140823_072956 - KopiaIMG_20140817_171541 - KopiaIMG_9995IMG_9970IMG_9971IMG_9962IMG_9940IMG_0132IMG_0126IMG_0113IMG_0111_MG_7812IMG_0026IMG_0053IMG_20140901_161539_MG_7899IMG_20140901_162307IMG_20140901_162522IMG_20140901_162559IMG_20140901_162714IMG_20140901_163017IMG_0107IMG_0090_MG_7843_MG_7849_MG_7868_MG_7886_MG_7841_MG_7783_MG_7781_MG_7827 (1)

New Caledonia

Tapping a dying keyboard four days out from New Caledonia.

Progressing good, if we been complaining in earlier posts about weak winds here in the south pacific we are now sure where the wind been, a constant pumping southeasterly at 20-28knots gusting sometimes up to the upper thirties, swell big  as houses and a strong current, all  of them traveling in line, no confusion no terror just an ocean that knows its heading, Miramis is happy now, running on a bottom reefed main and a small jib at nights and with a poled genua as addition on the hours the sun comes by, At night the moon growing bigger every day tainting our surrounding silver, I’m cooking porridge and have just done the dishes, taking laps between the computer  and stirring the pot on the stove, Mai just woke up.

Today we don’t know what to do, maybe we watch another movie or try resurrect a computer battery that given up the steam, life moves slow and gentle here at the moment, still there is about 7-8 days before we reach the great barrier reef and the Torres strait, we seen two ships so far so the traffic seams to get thicker already.

This is all about life on passage, this post was going to be about New Caledonia and all we saw and all people we met there.

I knew it at first sight when I read about New Caledonia, That was when we still where heading towards Vanuatu,

I knew that i in some way would come to love it and so I did, after those two days of extreme terror beating against a strong southerly from Vanuatu in combination with a flu it was magic to enter Havanna passage in province de sud on Grand Terre, Water as always behind a reef instantly flatten out, u can here Miramis cutting the water at her bow, a landscape tainted red by the soil, high rising rugged and raw, a coastline cracked up in creeks,  bays and rivers accompanied with tropical islands in the south east, It is a magical view and with the previous days of sailing it was like coming to heaven,

New Caledonia was discovered by Cpt James Cook, It was given the name since it reminded him very much of Caledonia in Scotland,

New Caledonia became later a colony under French flag and at present time they are a French outer territory country, Here there is a combination of traditional Melanesian lifestyle with the French,
Noumea witch is the capital is modern and the people here is very friendly and helpful,   it’s a mix of Europeans and Melanesian with minority’s of Japanese and Chinese living here.

Compared to the rest of the other south pacific islands we been visiting that is volcanic youngsters  New Caledonia is part of a much older world coming from same landmasses as  Australia.

This island also host the world’s largest reserves of Nickel and Cobolt witch make the mining industry present,

Since young on summer holidays with my family my father often took us to industrial sites and hydropower plants, a strange habit I now have adopted and with all this industrial machinery in a landscape as this it never got boring exploring rivers and hiking hills finding historical sites of old mining villages from a century earlier.

the east coast have for a longer stretch no connection with roads, still there is mining villages, the people live there coming and going in boats and small airplanes/helicopters but most of the time u see no one, giving it a feel about being home in north of Sweden.

On our southern and eastern strolls with Miramis we been repairing gennaker while eating fresh oysters, cleaning cloths in crystal clear freshwater rivers, hiking hills, trying out hot springs and seen sharks and a whale, driving all over ile de Pine on scooter and enduring 38knots fall winds on anchor.

In Noumea we was invited to barbeques taken to Kava Bars  and around the city by the friends we met aboard Rumbling rose in Tanna the month before, Teiki took us to see his Brother who works at the aquarium and have a great passion for fishes, a man who have built his own fish pools in the garden.

Some week before we meet a couple in the south while we were trying to sort out how to repair our gennaker on a muddy grass flat, they were there over the weekend on their boat and we quick became good friends, on the last stop in Noumea we was invited to Thierry and Camille for dinner on a hill slope in their new house with a magical view, We really hope to see all those people again and New Caledonia, We felt home there and it was very hard to leave.

I think this country is the most diverse of all we visited so far, it has the world’s largest circular coral reef that gives it good protection and a lot of fish, it has tropical islands and clear water, humpback whales in the right season, high mountains, a varied fauna of vegetation, endless of creeks and rivers to hike or paddle, fantastic friendly people, traditional lifestyle, modern lifestyle, birds everywhere and NO Mosquitos!

Thank u and Bon Voyage we love u!

_IMG1 (800x533) IMG_9430 (800x533) ?????????????IMG_9691 (800x533) IMG_9536 (533x800) IMG_9513 (533x800) _MG_7763 (533x800) IMG_9818 (800x533) IMG_9644 (800x533) IMG_20140730_152327 (800x533) IMG_9809 (800x533) IMG_9616 (800x533) IMG_9540 (800x533) IMG_9523 (533x800) ????????????? IMG_9788 (800x533) IMG_9408 (800x533) IMG_9634 (800x533) IMG_20140730_150216 (800x533) (800x533) IMG_9440 (800x533) IMG_9721 (800x533) 10705235_10154633019470220_393308762_n (450x800) IMG_9464 (800x533) IMG_9892 (533x800) IMG_9623 (800x533) IMG_20140730_145437 (800x533) (800x533) IMG_20140726_212205 IMG_9913 (800x533) IMG_20140712_164015 (800x600) IMG_9620 (800x533) 10667666_10154633019365220_1184741754_o IMG_9713 (800x533) IMG_20140712_164627 (800x600) IMG_9459 (800x533) IMG_9637 (800x533) IMG_9669 (800x533) 10706578_10154633129885220_668631306_n (450x800) IMG_9660 (800x533) IMG_20140712_163952 (800x600) IMG_9659 (800x533) IMG_9503 (800x533) IMG_20140730_152111 (800x533) (800x533) img13 (800x533) IMG_9703 (533x800) IMG_9722 (800x533) IMG_9710 (533x800) IMG_9677 (800x533) IMG_9419 (800x533) IMG_9641 (533x800) IMG_9349 (800x533) IMG_9705 (800x533) _MG_7695 (800x533) IMG_9712 (800x533) IMG_20140730_145624 (800x533) (800x533) IMG_20140730_145746 (800x533) _MG_7700 (800x533) IMG_9650 (533x800) IMG_9577 (800x533) IMG_9819 (533x800) _MG_7689 (800x533) IMG_9846 (800x533) IMG_20140726_225714 (800x600) IMG_9823 (800x533) _MG_7669 (800x533) IMG_20140730_152224 (800x533) (800x533) IMG_9850 (800x533) IMG_9780 (800x533) IMG_9720 (533x800) img 3 (800x450) IMG_9903 (800x533) 10704995_10154633130125220_7910472_n _MG_7713 (800x533) IMG_20140731_004106 (533x800) 10705275_10154633131145220_1842578011_n

Vanuatu

240 years ago, Captain James Cook saw a red glowing sky from the sea that he wanted to inspect. He arrived and anchored at a small bay in Tanna, Vanuatu. The bay he named “Port Resolution” after his vessel, the HMS Resolution…
In 2014 our boat Miramis came slowly in to the Port Resolution after seven days sailing from Tonga. This sailing trip was really jedi training for us. It began with short waves from everywhere constantly and we became tired quickly. In the second day our gennaker ripped in two in a gust from nowhere. We saw a tiny hole at the bottom of it and next second, of course Mr.Murphy visited us, 20 knot wind suddenly. It did hurt in our heart. We got the parts down on deck and cooked a good soup instead. It warmed up our body and mentality Dolphins played around us also and cheered us up!
Fifth and sixth day was no wind day… again. Miramis was rolling, and this is not so fun. You don’t know when you will arrive, or when wind come back, you only know that you don’t go forward and hope someday the wind come back so you try to find good position to lay down and take a rest. I didn´t know that it could be 0 knot wind in middle of the ocean. Water was looks like oil and I couldn´t stop thinking that we maybe arrived at an another planet. Suddenly we found rocks afloat on the water. There was many in different size. We began to catch some of them. I stood on the head of Miramis to give directions and Conny catched at the end of Miramis. Rocks coming from sea bottom, we were sailing above new born volcanos, new land. And this night we saw bioluminos alges. We started to sail again with the yellow-green shiny magical ocean. I could feel our earth
Arriving at Port Resolution, after we anchored, a man from “Port Resolution Yacht Club” named Stanley came to us in his log canoe and said hello. We asked him where the yacht club is. He told us that it is hiding in the jungle. This yacht club is the best yacht club we ever seen. So cozy and simple. We loved here from the beginning. Nature and people lives very close and always smiling. Children are running around with manchete and are so happy. There are pigs, cattles, chickens, dogs, cats and horses everywhere. A giant banyan trees are so beautiful and everybody here loves their village and their lifestyle. When we took a walk through a village everyone said hello and started to talk with us. It was so easy to getting know each other and they were happy to show us their lifestyle. No electricity, no internet but many happiness.
On the anchorage we met a New Caledonian sailing boat, Rumbling Rose, with Captain Teiki and his friends, Noémie, Isabelle, Bruno and Antoine. They are almost same age as us and were here for vacation. While they were at Port Resolution we hanged together and had a good time. We had a picnic by a lake, ate local dinner which is taro roots, yums, manioc, bananas, sweet potatoes and laplap (Vanuatu´s national dish, a doughy mix paste) with coconut cream and tasted kava at the white sand beach.
Kava drinking is a culture in Vanuatu. Some calls kava as “peace drug” because of its hallucinogen properties makes your mind happy and calm. On Tanna they do the traditional way to make kava. Men preparing roots by chewing it and then spit it out on a leaf. After that they mix the chewed paste with water and filter thorough coconuts fiber to a coconut shell. You drink everything in one time and you have to talk very quiet during a ceremony. Kava drinking is a male activity and women are not allowed to drink at the ceremony. Every village has a Nakamal (gathering place under a banyan tree) and men meet at the end of day and drink kava, talk and discus about life, community problem and everything while women cook dinner at home. When local people invited us for kava I was not allowed to join them so I stayed at local home with wives and children and helped cook, played card game to wait for Conny. (Last night in Vanuatu, they invited Conny for kava and he ended up with 4 and half kava. He almost could not walk straight but very relaxed and calm. It was fun to see 😉 ) But when we drank by the beach with team Caledonia I tasted. It looks like a dirty water and didn’t smell so much. Not so much taste but a little bit like a pepper, I mostly felt on my tongue and throat. But ambience was fantastic with wave sound and silver moon. It was nice experience.
We met Sam who are chief for village and his wife Joselin. Chief is like a justice man for a village and his word is law. Even politician have to follow when they come home. They told us history about village and took us to their spiritual places to use magic. It was very interesting to learn about their culture and we understood why they live like they live.
Maui is Joselins nephew, we helped her to send an e-mail on our satellite phone and she showed us her garden, how to cook traditional food and make basket with coconut leaf. She asked us if she and her children could come to our boat because they never been on a sailing boat. We invited them, while children saw ice age 3 we had nice time with some coffee at Miramis.
One day, we visited a village school. We met a man named Willie who worked as a teacher. We asked if we could come and see school. His class was full of 8 to 10 years old students and he had a mathematic class at the moment we visited. Classroom was made by trees and the room was full of drawings. Every student was so motivated and we got so much energy there. Willie told us that school is quit new and still need lots of things like books for library, pens and computers. We had some books, pens, a badminton set an old Hard-drive and a mobile phone to the teachers to donate. For us it was a fantastic moment to clear out a lot of things that we really never used and to see that it come in use by this fantastic people made us truly happy!!! So if u who read this, and planning to go to port resolution in Vanuatu, take with you whatever you don’t need at home. They appreciate everything. Like your old clothes, shoes, mobile and solar-panels… The chief Sam asked Conny to repair his shoes and Conny had shoemaker shop for a day. It can be good also to take some tools (read axe:).
Volcano mt. Yasur is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Maui told us that Yasur means old man and they believe that after you die, you go there. We and team Caledonia took a car together and went to volcano just before sunset. When we were near by, we could hear and feel the low sound from the mountain and see the red sky with thick smoke. There was no handrail between the fire and us. It was really amazing to be there. Now I saw how our planet began.
We had a fishing day with 4 local fishermen chosen by the village, the came aboard Miramis in the morning. I and Conny sailed and they worked the line trolling after Miramis. The Sea was very grumpy and big this day and it was a closedhauled tack all the way to Aniwa but everyone was happy and local music they played on the stereo never stopped. We got one tuna and one mahimahi. We were so impressed about their professional work. From to see fish on line to knock out of the fish just took some seconds, not like us.. We learned something about fishing this day and next day will be fish party after community work!
When community going to install water tank in the village everyone are there and help. We joined, when we came to Joselin she directly send conny to help men to dig for water hose and I stayed with her and women to cook big lunch. After work and lunch, the work leader had a speech and thanks us for fish and to help them. It was us who suppose to say thank you for everything they showed us. It became sad feeling because we knew that we had to leave here soon. They sang a song for Connys brother Jacob who getting married with his girlfriend Anna. We got tears in our eyes for these beautiful songs. Finally all the village people were standing on quae to shake hand and give hugs for us to say good bye.
Everyday has a strong color here in Tanna, Life is so beautiful. I´m sure It´ll become an unforgettable memory for us.

IMG_9290

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

DCIM100GOPRO

IMG_8803

IMG_8806

IMG_8812

IMG_8817

IMG_8819

IMG_8824

IMG_8825

IMG_8827

IMG_8829

IMG_8834

IMG_8835

IMG_8838

IMG_8839

IMG_8848

IMG_8852

IMG_8853

IMG_8857

IMG_8866

IMG_8870

IMG_8877

IMG_8878

IMG_8883

IMG_8885

IMG_8890

IMG_8893

IMG_8898

IMG_8905

IMG_8911

IMG_8912

IMG_8919

IMG_8921

IMG_8922

IMG_8932

IMG_8941

IMG_8943

IMG_8944

IMG_8945

IMG_8950

IMG_8955

IMG_8959

IMG_8968

IMG_8977

IMG_8991

IMG_8993

IMG_8995

IMG_9001

IMG_9002

IMG_9038

IMG_9045

IMG_9061

IMG_9066

IMG_9076

IMG_9078

IMG_9082

IMG_9088

IMG_9090

IMG_9092

IMG_9094

IMG_9106

IMG_9107

IMG_9108

IMG_9110

IMG_9113

IMG_9116

IMG_9118

IMG_9130

IMG_9133

IMG_9139

IMG_9143

IMG_9144

IMG_9148

IMG_9155

IMG_9165

IMG_9167

IMG_9198

IMG_9208

IMG_9211

IMG_9218

IMG_9220

IMG_9222

IMG_9226

IMG_9227

IMG_9228

IMG_9230

IMG_9233

IMG_9244

IMG_9264

IMG_9270

IMG_9284

 

progressing west

Since last blog  we have been visiting Beveridge reef and at the moment staying on the anchor in the protective harbor of Neiafu, which is the capital in the northern archipelago in  the kingdom of Tonga called Vavau.

Beveridge reef is called one of Oceania’s loneliest anchorages, it is an atoll without companion islands and with a surrounding reef that is submerged all the time with only a exception for one corner at low tide,

It do not have any detailed charts and is in itself charted about 3Nm NE off its true position wish in itself make it more difficult and trick to find but also make it less visited and a bit more dangerous,

We spent 5 days alone with plenty of fish and reef sharks, Since it is hard to see and charted wrong it is scattered with wrecks, Exploring wrecks is a daytime activity on Miramis so I was happy and we found some useful items on an old fishing trawler, the trick is not becoming wrecked ourselves and I have to admit that finding, entering into and out of the atoll was a bit exciting if not a bit scary considering the consequences if something went wrong, There is no one to assist, and there is not even a sand patch to island with coconuts to await assistance, we have had to stand in knee deep water on a wet reef for some day  or days to many days until salvaged but the weather was good and the pass quite big so after some calculations it was just to get goingJ

We left Beveridge after 5 days, not cause we were tired of it  but cause the weather was unstable, we had gusty rainy nights followed of gray days with not that much sun in the end,

We thought great! Let’s leave for Tonga and we at least have good wind to sail in…

Next sunrise and the wind was gone, 4 days it took us to sail 360Nm, once again the pacific have given us absolutely no wind as so many times before, except when on anchor, then it seems like the wind is blowing forever. Miramis was for sale some part of that leg and to a very good price, I promiseJ

In Tonga we meet France, she’s a friend I met in Las Palmas some year or two ago, then she was working as crew on a very big luxury sailing yacht, now when we was awaiting in the harbor to get access to the Customs clearance dock it was a girl on a boat passing us that waved and shouted, there she was!

We spent a week with her and her friends on the boat that they were delivering to New Zeeland from Caribbean,

But before that just some hour after we first met France while we were along the customs dock another yacht arrived, rafting up along our beam, aboard was Christine, the woman that was with Miramis assiting Me, Mai, Olle and Lina while transiting the Panama Canal,

Right then the world was incredible small again!!

Here in Tonga the sailing is very different from the rest of the pacific, here there is a full scale archipelago with flat calm waters and high rising limestone cliffs overgrown with thick vegetation, it is just fantastic to sail between the islands and there is not to mention any distances, anybody been in Stockholm archipelago and liked it, would love this tropical version that also include about a minimum of 30m visibility under water(wish I know by hands on experience is hard to achieve in the Baltic sea)

On the topic was exploring underwater caves and deep water soloing (rock climbing but without rope and water to fall in if popping off the cliff)

The locals here is very friendly and live a very happy life, Even if Tonga have had an explosion in visiting boats, that was about 600 last year, they have not take advantage of it that much and seem to prefer living life their happy way,

For us visiting it is just so much more lovely to be able to meet and see a country pristine and beautiful carrying a guest/visitor hat rather than a classic tourist hat.

At the moment have we just discovered that all our rice and some kg of pasta is heavily visited by flour bugs, that is not a fun evening discovery, Some bugs is part of life when sailing in this latitudes but with this amounts It will be a burden too heavy to sort them out, we plan to stock up with diesel have a repair carried out on our staysail and now also buy some more rice, then we thinking about heading straight on towards Tanna as the first island to visit in Vanuatu,

Tanna have an active volcano that by rumors can give visitors an quite spectacular fire show.

But more about that another time, first there is some days more of Tonga then there is another 1000Nm sailing between active underwater volcanos and the low lying islands of Fiji, I’m sure we won’t sleep as deep on this leg then we done on other ones, not mention what comes after that with the great barrier reef and Torres strait, better having long sleeps and relaxing days now

soon we got to get use of all the coffee we have had carried aboard! Some dating back all to the Canaries!

Ha en fin dag!

 BildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBild

Tahiti and society island (swedish ver.)

Hej! Här kommer Mai och ska skriva:)

Tiden har gått och nu har vi varit i society island över en månad. Känslan av att komma till Tahiti var spännande efter obebodda öarna i Tuamotu. Man såg bilar, hörde människornas ljud och Carrefour! Alla var jätteglada att komma till en sån stor supermaket där finns många alternativ att välja på, desuutom kan man köpa allt man vill ha på ett ställe. Vi köpte bl a en symaksin, många baguetter, 5kg brie ost, kött, isbergssalad, ett nytt harpungevär och nya diskborstar.

Den 12 april åkte båda våra besättningar Lina och Olle hem till Sverige. Det kändes väldigt tomt i Miramis efter 4 månaders sällskapet. Jag är väldigt glad att jag fick lära känna dem tack och vare Conny. Jag har lärt mig många saker från båda de två, Lina som har super fina leende som strålade på hela båten gav oss många värdefulla råd om matlagning, städning, och dykning. Olle som har alltid roliga kommentarer och ord skapade många härliga skratt hos Miramis och hans fotografier uppskattar alla. Bådas fantastiska påverkan kommer betyda mycket för mig, Conny och Miramis. Nu har deras namn döpt till olika föremål som finns i Miramis. Symaskinen heter Lina för hon är duktig på att sy, Kylskåpet heter Olle för han är duktig på att ätaJ Jag längtar redan efter att träffa dem igen i någon annanstans i jorden. Tills det får jag säga ”god morgon Olle! ” till kylskåpet och ha en liten mysig samtal stund med symaskinen.

Precis när de åkte kom en annan kompis ombord. Tone Winqvist! Jag känner henne från Konstfack och blev väldigt glad att hon flög över halva jorden för hälsa på oss i 5 veckor. Hon tog med sig en av mina favorit pennor och vi tecknade tillsammans på båten. Det känndes kul att känna konsten och dess kreativitet nära igen. Hon tog med sig inte bara pennor utan nya luft och massor av inspirationer.

Efter att vi bunkrade maten i tahiti seglade vi vidare till Moorea. Vattnet var kristalklart och vi snorklade med stingrays, eaglerays, svarttiphajar och många andra fiskar. I Opunohu bay, där vi ankrade, träffade vi en 27fot albinvega segelbåt ”Living in the dream” med Joe från Tyskland. En glad härlig ensamseglare! Sedan dess har vi umgått resten av resa i society island. I Moorea har vi fyra vandrat på berget Belvedere (gick vilse men hittade hem efter skogsorientering mästare Connys fotsteg), dansat med polynesiska dansörer. Efter att Conny dansat sa han att han nu kan föstå hur captain James Blight kännde sig i filmen ”Mutiny of Bounty” med Marlon Brando.

I Huahine blev ankare för våran gummibåt stulen. Det var tråkigt att bli stulen precis efter att någon i Tahiti stjäl connys gopro kamera också. Vi hade knutit och låst fast gummibåten med bryggan men ankare har vi bara knutit fast till gummibåten. Man hinner bli ledsen för att det är så fort man kommer till civilisation, Det var inte så stor summa dem själ från oss sa Conny men det känns som att de själ också landet fina intryck från oss. Efter polisbesök med anmälan och tack vare support från vårat fantastiska försäkringsbolag Pantaenius seglade vi vidare till olika ankring plats och njutit av livet.

I Raiatea ankrade vi i faaroa bay där fanns flod man kunde paddla upp till med gummibåten. Vi fick en lokal guide som paddlade framför oss och berättade om polynesisk botaniskagård. Vi fick besöka hans gård sen och fick fulla gummibåten av frukter.

 I Tahaa hade dem en av dem vackeraste snorkeling i society island. Det kanske är mindre folk som bor där och mindre turister vilket gör att koraller är inte lika förstörda och fiskarna är inte rädda. Det var samma i Borabora, där fanns några stora fiskar och vi simmade med skölpaddor.

Sen bestämde vi för oss att segla tillbaka till Tahiti för lämna av Tone som ska åka hem och vi ville också göra båten redo för segla till nästa destination. Hela segling i society island hade vi inte mycket vind (förutom då vi ankrade. ibland blåste mer än 30 knop). Men under resan träffade vi en amerikansk 60fot motor katamaran ”Domino” med jättetrevligt par. De har byggt båten själv och det var kul att träffa dem igen efter Tahanea. Sedan träffade vi en 40fot tävlingsegelbåt ”Pen kalet” med fransk par som är också trevliga. Dem har vi träffat i gambier island också.

När vi kom till Tahiti hade Tone några dagar kvar så vi tänkte segla till Tahiti iti, södra Tahiti. Det var ingen vind så vi körde motor. Jag styrde och Conny vilade eftersom han var bakis och lite sjösjuk. Plötsligt märkte jag att det luktar mycket diesel. Jag väckte Conny och då visade sig att dieselfilter har gått sönder och hela motorrum hade besprutats av ca 80l diesel, vilket är alldeles för mycket diesel för man ska vara lycklig. Conny fixade filter snabbt och sen jag och Tone hade pumping pass i gungande Miramis. Vi gick ner och pumpade upp diesel, gick upp igen och fyllde diesel i en annan dunk om och om. Eftersom det luktade mycket diesel hade vi (inte Conny) papperstuss i båda näshål och jobbade. Men i slutändan var vi lyckliga. Nu är mortorrums golvet rent.

 Nu är vi i Tahiti igen, har sagt hejdå till Tone, bunkrade lite mera mat och byggt repsteg upp till första spridarna i klassisk storseglarestyl. Snart ska vi fylla på mera diesel för nästa resa. Men hoppas vi kommer inte använda så mycket. Det ska bli kul att segla ut till havs igen. Nya äventyr har redan börjat! 

 Bild

 BildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildswedeBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBild

Wow! (Blog post by guest deckhand Lina)

It’s been a truly fantastic journey across an ocean with an amazing crew and loads of laughs! We visited incredible places I didn’t even know existed and we met wonderful people and creatures all along the way. Now time has come for me to return to a different reality. As I’m mustering of S/Y Miramis, I’m bringing loads of happy memories and unforgettable experiences with me.

Thanks Captain Conny Dahlin, La Capitania Mai Morimura and deckhand Olle Moren for the past 100 days of adventure!

Wishing all the very best for Miramis continuing journey and her crew!

Over & out

/Lina

Catch up

Etiketter

, , , ,

Much have happened and many miles have passed since last time we posted here so this blog will be a try to catch up,

The passage from Galapagos was a 20 days trip, we planned to arrive in the Gambier atoll in the south of Tuamotu, French Polynesia, but somewhere on the way we had changing winds and sat watching the movie “mutiny on bounty” a very well known  story from the past, realizing the wind was more favorable making Pitcairn our first landfall and after frustration over the winds  we quickly decided to make a left turn in next junction,

Pitcairn is the island where the mutineers finally decided to settle after a long search for a suitable island, the island rise high and steep out of the water and is a very raw and powerful view to approach, The anchorage is pretty much like stopping mid ocean and dropping anchor except the depth was 20meter, if some people on yachts have had rolly nights we surely believe we can challenge thoseJ

Arrived Pitcairn 4th of March

On the island wish there was growing passion fruits avocados bananas in such an excess that it was just to pick from the trees while hiking the hills, the people is speaking an old 17th century sailor English and is a fantastic friendly and happy bunch and just listening to the accent is a pleasure itself

We spent 5 five days there, we wish we could have stayed longer, but the bad protection for boats against weather is what set us out on the sea again, 5 days is considered a long window of visit so we where happy.

The island have no airport and its only fixed connection to the outer world is a supply ship bringing people and materials every 3 months, Pitcairn is considered one of the most isolated community’s in the world.

It is the most fertile island I ever seen with fruits and food and its people with a total population of 48 (most of them related back to the early mutineers ) seams to live the dream for those seeking a lifestyle of self-sustainability.

We also had the honor to meet an older couple from Norway there, Stein and Diana who had visited Pitcairn in the 1970s on their circumnavigation with their 2 children,

They were now back for the 3rd time, those two persons close to 70years old showed us life is truly long, both Stein and Diana had been rowing across the Atlantic solo with in the 10 previously years and showed no sign of slowing down in the adventures they were taking on.

They took us hiking in the beautiful landscape and invited us for dinners.

A great thanks for our experience of Pitcairn to the community and its population.

We sat sail in the evening sun with gennaker flying and the bow pointing towards Gambier, the passage wish was only  about 300Nm took us 3 long days  when the wind just kept loosing punch  each day,

We arrived there on the 12th of March.

in Gambier wish is a part of French Polynesia we had some fresh baked baguettes from the local bakery, Gambier is a large atoll with high rising islands and is populated with about 1500people, the most people there make their living on farming black pearls  and in the past it was a supply base for the French nuclear testing in the nabour atoll muroroa.

 Compared to Pitcairn it felt like a metropolitan with its long main street, they even have an airport!

While island hoping we ended up on a island called Tuvalei, where Me and Olle got grabbed by a family and sat down for a coffe, it was Herve and Valerie, with their two young sons and two other younger girls living there for schooling, Valerie was teaching from home and Herve took care of an old church on the island so to not let the jungle take it back, it was populated by them and two other couples, we had some really good barbecue’s and was overwhelmed of all the fruits we was given, Herve took me spearfishing, an activity I now learnt is pretty much a failsafe way to get close to sharks in the south pacific waters, at the moment I type this all aboard the boat enjoy snorkeling and swimming in sharky waters daily and we even have some pet sharks under Miramis that never complain about  fish head and bones.

After 12days in Gambier we sat off north through the Tuamotus archipelago to land in the uninhabited atoll Tahanea about 600Nm northwest, we was lured there by a Canadian boat we meet in Gambier aboard was Carol and Livia,

They been in the region 4 years now and I wish I could have that much time to do the same since the Tuamotus is the most beautiful and un spoilt of tropical nature we ever seen,

They took us to their favorite atoll passages where we did snorkeling with the incoming tide wish gave us a 5knots flight over colorful corals filled with fish rays and sharks.

While spearfishing on a coral pinnacle in the lagoon I was blessed with having a gray shark a big spotted eagle ray and a gigantic sea turtle in front of my googles without having to twist my neck!

After more consulting with Carol and Livia we was told about the wall of sharks in the south passage of the Fakarava atoll, so some days later we sat off in the evening sun to practice what Lina called a Napkinsailing strategy, with just a tiny bit of headsail out we managed to keep our desired speed of 3knots average so not to arrive before sunrise to the nearby Passage, while we 3 was snorkeling the pass Lina did some diving, it’s a pass where schools of Gray sharks stay with the tide current to wait out food passing them, it is more than 200 sharks in a small space of the pass so it was a different view definitely!

The day after we sailed off towards Tahiti, and I am now typing the last words here of this blog on anchor on the western side of this beautiful island, it feels good to be back in civilization, we have stocked Miramis up with fuel, gas, a new spear gun and sewing machine and tonight we will enjoy some real dinner that not include fish;)

Enough typing and a try to let pictures speak for itself!

Ahoi and best regards!!//Conny DahlinBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBildBild

Towards the south sea! /Deckhand Olle logging

Tomorrow we’ll pull up the anchor cause it’s time for the big journey across the Pacific Ocean towards French Polynesia and with that we can also anounce that Miramis will be the first expedition in the world trying to find the mystic Kurrekurredutt island!

Behind us we leave the Galapagos islands. We spent about two weeks including chilling on the beach with iguanas, wave surfing, eating local food, biking around the nature, meeting giant tortoises, snorkeling, diving, cave crawling and buying local great fruit/vegetables for our ship to feed us during the sailing.

We also ran out of cash and had to visit the more civilised isle of Santa Cruz where they’ve bank offices. Beeing to expensive having a cruise permit letting us sail around the islands we had to go by bumpy speed boat over there making us stay on a nice little hostel where we could’ve quite nice showers for once 🙂

Ahoj!

The previous post was a joke!..

To make things clear, there has been no encounter with a crocodile! The scars came from falling over a coral reef and they look worse than they really are. Some relatives and friends understood that we were just making a stupid joke about it but it might not have been obviously to all blog readers.

We’re sorry for any missunderstandings and apologise a lot to everyone who got worried about our safety, that was not our intention!

/Olle & Lina

För att klargöra så har vi inte träffat på någon krokodil! Ärren uppkom vid ett fall på ett korallrev och de ser värre ut än vad de är på riktigt. En del släktingar och vänner förstod att det bara var ett dåligt skämt av oss men det kanske inte framgick för alla bloggläsare.

Vi är ledsna för eventuella missförstånd och ber mycket om ursäkt för alla som blev oroliga för vår säkerhet, det var inte vår avsikt!

/Olle & Lina

The scars

The battle was an intense submission wrestling for 30 minutes untill the crocodile finally tapped out.
I’m glad I’ve seen some movies where Chuck Norris have been guiding me to great martial art knowledge or I wouldn’t’ve survived this 😉

/Deckhand Olle

20140203-170446.jpg

20140203-170425.jpg

20140203-170515.jpg