Much have happened and many miles have passed since last time we posted here so this blog will be a try to catch up,
The passage from Galapagos was a 20 days trip, we planned to arrive in the Gambier atoll in the south of Tuamotu, French Polynesia, but somewhere on the way we had changing winds and sat watching the movie “mutiny on bounty” a very well known story from the past, realizing the wind was more favorable making Pitcairn our first landfall and after frustration over the winds we quickly decided to make a left turn in next junction,
Pitcairn is the island where the mutineers finally decided to settle after a long search for a suitable island, the island rise high and steep out of the water and is a very raw and powerful view to approach, The anchorage is pretty much like stopping mid ocean and dropping anchor except the depth was 20meter, if some people on yachts have had rolly nights we surely believe we can challenge thoseJ
Arrived Pitcairn 4th of March
On the island wish there was growing passion fruits avocados bananas in such an excess that it was just to pick from the trees while hiking the hills, the people is speaking an old 17th century sailor English and is a fantastic friendly and happy bunch and just listening to the accent is a pleasure itself
We spent 5 five days there, we wish we could have stayed longer, but the bad protection for boats against weather is what set us out on the sea again, 5 days is considered a long window of visit so we where happy.
The island have no airport and its only fixed connection to the outer world is a supply ship bringing people and materials every 3 months, Pitcairn is considered one of the most isolated community’s in the world.
It is the most fertile island I ever seen with fruits and food and its people with a total population of 48 (most of them related back to the early mutineers ) seams to live the dream for those seeking a lifestyle of self-sustainability.
We also had the honor to meet an older couple from Norway there, Stein and Diana who had visited Pitcairn in the 1970s on their circumnavigation with their 2 children,
They were now back for the 3rd time, those two persons close to 70years old showed us life is truly long, both Stein and Diana had been rowing across the Atlantic solo with in the 10 previously years and showed no sign of slowing down in the adventures they were taking on.
They took us hiking in the beautiful landscape and invited us for dinners.
A great thanks for our experience of Pitcairn to the community and its population.
We sat sail in the evening sun with gennaker flying and the bow pointing towards Gambier, the passage wish was only about 300Nm took us 3 long days when the wind just kept loosing punch each day,
We arrived there on the 12th of March.
in Gambier wish is a part of French Polynesia we had some fresh baked baguettes from the local bakery, Gambier is a large atoll with high rising islands and is populated with about 1500people, the most people there make their living on farming black pearls and in the past it was a supply base for the French nuclear testing in the nabour atoll muroroa.
Compared to Pitcairn it felt like a metropolitan with its long main street, they even have an airport!
While island hoping we ended up on a island called Tuvalei, where Me and Olle got grabbed by a family and sat down for a coffe, it was Herve and Valerie, with their two young sons and two other younger girls living there for schooling, Valerie was teaching from home and Herve took care of an old church on the island so to not let the jungle take it back, it was populated by them and two other couples, we had some really good barbecue’s and was overwhelmed of all the fruits we was given, Herve took me spearfishing, an activity I now learnt is pretty much a failsafe way to get close to sharks in the south pacific waters, at the moment I type this all aboard the boat enjoy snorkeling and swimming in sharky waters daily and we even have some pet sharks under Miramis that never complain about fish head and bones.
After 12days in Gambier we sat off north through the Tuamotus archipelago to land in the uninhabited atoll Tahanea about 600Nm northwest, we was lured there by a Canadian boat we meet in Gambier aboard was Carol and Livia,
They been in the region 4 years now and I wish I could have that much time to do the same since the Tuamotus is the most beautiful and un spoilt of tropical nature we ever seen,
They took us to their favorite atoll passages where we did snorkeling with the incoming tide wish gave us a 5knots flight over colorful corals filled with fish rays and sharks.
While spearfishing on a coral pinnacle in the lagoon I was blessed with having a gray shark a big spotted eagle ray and a gigantic sea turtle in front of my googles without having to twist my neck!
After more consulting with Carol and Livia we was told about the wall of sharks in the south passage of the Fakarava atoll, so some days later we sat off in the evening sun to practice what Lina called a Napkinsailing strategy, with just a tiny bit of headsail out we managed to keep our desired speed of 3knots average so not to arrive before sunrise to the nearby Passage, while we 3 was snorkeling the pass Lina did some diving, it’s a pass where schools of Gray sharks stay with the tide current to wait out food passing them, it is more than 200 sharks in a small space of the pass so it was a different view definitely!
The day after we sailed off towards Tahiti, and I am now typing the last words here of this blog on anchor on the western side of this beautiful island, it feels good to be back in civilization, we have stocked Miramis up with fuel, gas, a new spear gun and sewing machine and tonight we will enjoy some real dinner that not include fish;)
Enough typing and a try to let pictures speak for itself!